INSTRUCTIONS/CARE FOR YOUR NEW PUPPY
DIET/FEEDING:
Beginning at 3 weeks of age we start feeding our puppies Vet recommended Prescription A/D puppy food. We purchase this at our Vet's office or by prescription at our local 'PetSmart'. Since this food contains a high quantity of liquid, our puppies receive adequate fluids while Mom's milk supply decreases due to the weaning process. At this time our puppies will begin to experiment with Mom's water bowl, so we keep the water level VERY low in case an overly adventurous puppy climbs in to the bowl! This is why it is essential to keep a fresh water supply at all times.
At 4 weeks of age we add Royal Canin # 30 to the A/D food. This is a very highly nutritious puppy food that is available at 'PetSmart' and 'Petco' stores throughout the country. It is a tiny crunchy morsel that assists with teething while supplying an excellent supply of vitamins for growing puppies. We encourage you to continue
feeding your puppy this healthy food, however if you decide to change to another brand, please select
another suitable one recommended by your Vet. To prevent digestive upsets, slowly add this change
in diet to the Royal Canin # 30 over a period of one week until your puppy can tolerate a complete change.
POTTY TRAINING:
1. I begin puppy pad training as soon as the puppies' eyes are fully opened and they begin to explore outside the familiar safety of their bed. I place pads in front of the bedding so that the puppy can feel the different texture from his bedding. Since Mommy continually cleans them from birth, before, during and after nursing, they are conditioned to never having to sleep in their fecal matter or urine. As disgusting as it may sound to a non-breeder, Mommy eats the puppies waste products. If you are ever fortunate enough to watch a Dam nurse her litter, you will notice that she licks each one of them, going over and over each one several times before she finally settles down to take a nap while they continue nursing. By doing this, not only is she encouraging them to suckle milk from her, she is stimulating their muscles to expel urine and fecal waste. Just as we humans have the urge to go to the bathroom upon awakening and void (go potty!) so do the ever-growing puppies. Once they are strong enough to climb out of their beds, the first thing they will do is squat and go potty on the pad. As the days go by and they become familiar with the feel of the pad, they learn that this is where 'it all happens', and I am right there to tell them how clever they all are.
2. It is a well-known fact that Chihuahuas do not like cold or wet weather. Because of this, I always recommend that you continue to keep a puppy pad available for your new family member long after you have taken him/her home. (Because your new puppy has such a tiny bladder, you cannot expect him/her to 'hold' his bodily fluids until you come home from a trip to the store, or work etc.) NEVER scold your puppy for going potty anywhere besides the pad. He doesn't speak your language! If you are not there to witness him going potty, he doesn't understand why you are angry with him! If you do catch him in the act (and you SHOULD be watching him while he is running around playing!) as soon as you see him/her start to squat, pick puppy up and take him to the pad and say, "Go potty." After he goes potty, tell him/her by name, "Clever --- went potty on the pad!" and pat him/her and reward him with love! Your puppy will be SO excited to have pleased you. Trust me! It works!
3. If you wish to teach your puppy to relieve himself outdoors, remember one basic rule! As soon as he/she wakes up from a nap, pick him up and carry him outside to an area where you wish him to void. Praise him immediately - DON'T give him a treat as this will only lead to him becoming overweight. Save the treats as a 'special reward' for teaching your puppy to do tricks! ('Petsmart' has a wonderful training program that I highly recommend. Our Great Dane, Delilah, learned SO much there, as did we, and after each weekly session, we were given the written information on what we had just learned. Upon graduation, we were given an entire booklet about on-going training.)
4. After feeding your puppy his regular meal, take him outside again (or over to the puppy pad) 15 minutes after eating. He will soon learn the routine and know what is expected of him. Don't take him outside and leave him there unattended! Birds of prey will easily see him/her as their next meal! Chihuahuas are defenseless little creatures who have been snatched up off the ground by huge Crows. Apart from the safety factor, you need to be there to praise him/her for going potty and to reward him/her with a pat and a hug as you carry him back indoors.
5.Whether you choose to train puppy to go potty 'outside' or on a pad indoors, until your puppy is fully trained I recommend that you secure him/her safely inside a 'Pet Safe' Puppy Playpen (you can purchase them at 'Petsmart') while you are at work, shopping etc. A puppy left alone is a puppy who can find all sorts of mischievious things to do! After all, you left him home alone and he needs to entertain himself, so if chewing the leg of your Great-Grandmother's Antique Curio is what it takes to keep him occupied, then so be it! He will soon learn that 'when you go out', 'he goes in'! Leave a bowl of fresh water and dry food. Place a puppy pad in front of the bedding so that as soon as he wakes up he can go potty on the pad. Leave a safe chew toy for him to amuse himself with in your absense. Do not leave any toy that has removeable parts like eyes, little tails, etc. Puppy can easily chew them off and choke on them. Never allow a puppy to play with anything that has a warning sign of any kind on it. The warning sign is there for a reason.
6. To make training easier, we suggest taking the puppy out at the same time periods each day. This
will help get the puppy on a schedule and he/she will know when to expect to go out.
HEALTH CARE:
1. Be sure to take your puppy for his/her next well-puppy check (see health certificate and call your vet to
schedule the next appointment).
2. WARNING: Chihuahuas have low sugar levels and can have seizures if not tended to properly.
I recommend that you always have a supply of Nutri-Cal available. If you notice your puppy lounging around a bit more than usual or low on energy, simply squeeze a half inch strip out of the tube on to your finger
and the puppy will gladly lick the pleasant tasting paste. If you run out of it, you can substitute it with
approximately 1/4 teaspoon of honey in his/her food. This will bring his/her sugar level back up and will
avoid the potential for a seizure. Fortunately, we have not experienced this with any of our pups but it can
happen. Always check with your vet as he/she may have another suggestion.
COLLARS:
1. NEVER use a collar on a Chihuahua or any other toy breed. A harness is safer and more comfortable for a toy breed. The puppy's neck is very tiny and a standard collar can easily injure his/her neck if suddenly jerked! I buy ferret harnesses for my puppies as they are made of mesh and fit securely around the puppy. When the puppy grows out of it you can then use a puppy harness.
2. WARNING: NEVER LEAVE A HARNESS ON A PUPPY OR DOG. Leaving a harness on your puppy or grown dog can be dangerous as they could easily become caught on something, causing your pet to panic and pull even more. In some tragic cases, some poor little innocent animals have struggled so much that they hyperventillate and if left unattended can actually die. Don't let this happen to your puppy! A harness is a vital part of puppy and/or dog training. They soon learn that they are going to be taken outside.
OTHER TIPS:
Most important of all: Enjoy your puppy and give him/her lots of love! They love to cuddle and will quickly get
accustomed to curling up on your lap and/or sleeping under a blanket! We always enjoy our pups and
wish we could keep them all. Please do call/e-mail us often to let us know how you and the puppy
are doing. Of course, you may also call us any time if you have any questions or concerns.